The Problem
Unfortunately, over the course of twenty years, it is PBHE’s experience that very few blades match the contour of the sole of the boot. This fact is true even with companies that manufacture both the boots and the blades. If the blades are just screwed to the sole (even when the sole is sanded) the blades will be under tension.These blades are often twisted and rarely straight.
It is agreed upon by all blade manufacturers that figure skating blades should be mounted straight and not be under tension. The main reason for cracks at the stanchions, boot heel separation, and screws not holding under general use, is that the blade was mounted under tension. From a skater’s perspective, a blade under tension has a spring action that can negatively affect performance.
The Solution
The solution is to fill the gaps between the sole and blade plates with PBLC epoxy which can stand the stress and impact of competitive skaters while being resistant to water and temperature extremes. For the last six years PBHE has been mounting blades of National and International competitors in this manner to solve this problem. We are now sharing this special epoxy with the skating community. The process is involved but the reward is substantial in that it ensures consistent blade response and eliminates any blade movement over time. Our skaters talk about feeling the blade as they progress through complicated footwork maneuvers and when setting for jumps and spins. A skater reaches a new level of skating when they become aware of their edges and can hear and feel their blades glide through the ice.
Overview: 7 Steps for Precision Blade Mounting
Step 1: Determine Desired Blade Position
Step 2: Assess Gap Between Blade Plate and Boot Sole
Step 3: Sand to Reduce Gap
Step 4: Position Blade, Drill Holes, and Set Screws
Step 5: Prepare and Apply Precision Blade Leveling Compound (PBLC)
Step 6: Encourage Skaters to Test Blade Position on Ice
Step 7: Reposition Blade(s) if Required
Notes when mounting used equipment:
- If the boots are not new the holes from the previous screws need to be filled (See Step 7 for PBHE's technique to fill previous screw holes) before following the Precision Blade Mounting process.
- When mounting used blades, the blades should be sharpened before mounting and be checked for equal edge height by using a Machinist Square and a 0.001 of an inch feeler gauge.
Breaking Down the 7 Steps
Step 1: Determine Desired Blade Position
Step 1.1: Make sure the skater's equipment fits properly prior to mounting blades.
Step 1.2: Discuss with the skater if their feet supinate, pronate, or are neutral and how this affects the position of mounting. You can determine if they supinate, pronate, or are neutral by looking at the back of their ankles (while they stand with their feet hip distance apart) and comparing their stance to the pictures below. You can also compare their well worn shoes with the picture below. The dark areas in the picture are where the sole has been worn down due to the owner's alignment.
Step 1.3: Review previous blade mounting and any input from the skater's coaches.
Step 1.4: Based on the information gathered, provide your suggestion on where the blade should be positioned.
PBHE’s Recommended Blade Positioning
Step 1.5: Discuss with the skater if they want to follow PBHE's recommendation, continue with their old mounting position or try a hybrid. Mount the blade in the position desired by the skater.
Step 2: Assess Gap Between Blade Plate and Boot Sole
Step 2.1: Position blade on boot.
Step 2.2: Trace the toe plate and heel plate on the sole of the boot. Notice the gap between the boot sole and the blade plates.
Step 2.3: Using a piece of paper or shim find out where the blade is touching the boot sole. Mark the contact area with a pencil. This is where you will need to sand down the sole.
Step 3: Sand to Reduce Gap
Step 3.1: Sand down noted high spots on boot sole with a stationary belt sander. You don’t want to sand off more than 1/32” otherwise you may compromise the integrity of the boot sole. You cannot sand any boot with a membrane sole (such as Edea boots). Gaps will be filled with PBLC epoxy for full contact and support.
Step 4: Position Blade, Drill Holes, and Set Screws
Note: It is recommended you use PBHE's Handheld Cordless Leveling Drill for the following steps. Ensure the drill is vertical by using the bullseye level on the drill. Its bullseye level allows the operator to drill square to the blade plate with more control and accuracy.
Step 4.1: Place the boot on a PBHE Adjustable Skate Anvil and properly position the blade on the boot using tape to hold it in position. The toe plate should be set approximately 1/16" back from the front of the boot sole.
Step 4.2: Secure the toe blade plate to the boot.
Step 4.2.1: Ensure toe plate is level. To do this place a bullseye level on the toe plate and adjust the PBHE Adjustable Skate Anvil.
Step 4.2.2: Drill 2 toe plate adjusting holes (oval slots). In the example picture provided below the toe plate's adjustable holes are T2 and T7.
First drill a "dimple" with a larger drill (~3/16") in the center of the hole and then drill in with a 5/64" self-centering drill bit.
For Edea boots ONLY: Enlarge the 5/64" holes to 3/32" (2.5mm) while using the 3/32" Blass Drill Stop.
Step 4.2.3: Check to see that the heel plate is in the correct position and that the blade is straight.
For details on how to test if the blade is straight click here.
Correct positioning if necessary.
Step 4.2.4: Install screws by hand.
Step 4.2.5: Drill 3 positioning holes in the toe plate. In the example picture provided below the 3 positioning holes PBHE would drill are T1, T5, and T8.
First drill a "dimple" with a larger drill (~3/16") in the center of the hole and then drill in with a 5/64" self-centering drill bit.
For Edea boots ONLY: Enlarge the 5/64" holes to 3/32" (2.5mm) while using the 3/32" Blass Drill Stop.
Step 4.2.6: Install the screws by hand to secure the toe plate.
Step 4.3: Secure the Heel Plate
Step 4.3.1: Ensure the heel plate is level before drilling each heel plate hole.
To do this, place a bullseye level on the heel plate overtop of where you will drill and adjust the PBHE Adjustable Skate Anvil.
Step 4.3.2: Drill 2 adjusting holes in the heel plate. In the example picture provided below the heel plate's adjustable holes are H1 and H3.
First drill a "dimple" with a larger drill (~3/16") in the center of the hole and then drill in with a 5/64" self-centering drillbit.
Drill holes deeper than in the toe plate since the screws are longer.
For Edea boots ONLY: Enlarge the 5/64" holes to 3/32" (2.5mm) while using the 3/32" Blass Drill Stop.
Step 4.3.3: Check again for blade straightness and correct if necessary.
Step 4.3.4: Install the 2 heel adjusting hole screws.
Step 4.3.5: Once again ensure the heel plate is level before drilling.
Step 4.3.6: Drill the 1 positioning hole that is closest to the heel plate. In the example picture provided it is the H2 hole.
First drill a "dimple" with a larger drill (approximately 3/16") in the center of the hole and then drill in with a 5/64" self-centering drillbit.
Drill the hole deeper than in the toe plate since the screws are longer.
For Edea boots ONLY: Enlarge the 5/64" holes to 3/32" (2.5mm) while using the 3/32" Blass Drill Stop.
Step 4.3.7: Check again for blade straightness and correct if necessary.
Step 4.3.8: Install the final screw by hand.
Note: Location for holes required for initial drilling may vary slightly from the above picture due to different blade plate design.
Step 5: Prepare and Apply Precision Blade Leveling Compound (PBLC)
Warning: Always wear gloves when handling PBLC Epoxy.
Step 5.1: Remove all of the screws and take off blade.
Step 5.2: Saran wrap the toe plate and heel plate. Ensure that the Saran wrap is secure and holding to the blade plates.
Step 5.3: Prepare PBLC Epoxy
Step 5.3.1: Cut off ~1 inch of PBLC epoxy from tube.
Step 5.3.2: Blend PBLC until the epoxy is all one colour.
After blending you will have approximately 20 minutes of working time before the epoxy starts to cure.
The epoxy has the best flexibility in the first 10 minutes.
Step 5.3.3: Roll the epoxy into a strand approximately 1/8" to 3/16" in diameter (depending on the size of the gap) and place on the toe and heel plate. Leave screw holes visible.
Step 5.4: Flip blade onto boot sole and align the blade plate holes with the previously made drilled holes. Lightly put in all of the screws that were previously drilled.
Step 5.5: Secure heel plate so that it is parallel to boot heel. The boot heel is our main reference point.
Step 5.5.1: Insert two small spacers (such as 3/64" drill bits) that fit snugly in the natural gap of the front of the heel plate and the boot heel.
Step 5.5.2: Tighten the two screws in the heel plate that are closest to the toe plate so that the heel plate is tight against the spacers.
Step 5.6: Lightly tighten the toe plate screws.
Step 5.7: Evaluate blade mounting
Step 5.7.1: Check to make sure there is no twist in the blade by using the parallel bars and spot level.
For details on how to test for twist in the blade click here.
Step 5.7.2: If the blade is twisted tighten the screws down on the high side. Do this until the blade is secure and not twisted.
Step 5.7.3: Check to make sure the blade is straight.
Step 5.8: Trim excess epoxy that has squeezed out around the outside edges of the plates and let the epoxy set for 4 hours.
Step 5.9: Remove spacers (such as drill bits).
Note: Repeat Steps 2 through 5 on the second boot and blade.
Step 6: Encourage Skaters to Test Blade Position on Ice
Step 6.1: The skater should test the blade positioning on the ice. If the position of the blade was significantly different from the previous position or if the skater is trying something new, such as orthotics, it may take longer for an accurate assessment of the new blade positioning (approximately 2 - 4 hours).
Step 6.2: The skater should be able to get on their inside and outside edges, forward and backward, with the same amount of effort when skating on one foot. When the skater is balanced, on one foot, they should naturally glide in a straight line with no blade chatter.
Step 7: Reposition Blade(s) if Required
Step 7.1: Remove all screws.
Step 7.2: Sand any high epoxy areas that prevent moving the blade from side to side.
Step 7.3: Remount blades using only adjusting screws. Ensure blade is straight with no twist.
Step 7.4: Test blades with skater on the ice and move as required (ensuring blade is straight with no twist).
Step 7.5: Once the skater is satisfied and the final position is determined, drill and screw in 1 new positioning screw in the toe plate and 1 new position screw in the heel plate to mark the new position. These should be in holes that were not drilled in previously. Then remove the blade from the boot.
Step 7.6: Fill the holes that were for the incorrect positioning screws (don’t fill in the adjusting screw holes or the 2 new correct positioning holes).
Step 7.6.1: Determine the correct size of the Hardwood Dowel.
Step 7.6.2: Put a drop of Original Barge Cement in the hole and on the tip of the Hardwood Dowel.
Step 7.6.3: Place wooden dowel into the hole and gently hammer in the Hardwood Dowel.
Step 7.6.4: Repeat steps 7.6.1 through 7.6.3 for each positioning hole.
Step 7.6.5: Let cement dry for 20 minutes.
Step 7.6.6: Sand or cut off the protruding dowels and cement
Step 7.7: Drill and install new positioning holes in toe and heel plate using the techniques from Step 4.
Note: If the blade repositioning is substantial then all of the epoxy should be taken off by sanding and the entire mounting procedure should be repeated.
The process of properly mounting blades is extremely important to a skater’s consistency and helps maximize their performance. When the process has been completed once, mounting future equipment is simple and straight forward.
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